Wit & Wisdom: A Great Name, A Great Establishment

It is a freezing and windy Saturday night. My husband and I decide to take a leap of faith by exploring a bar recommendation from the free paper. Looking extremely stylish in our huge puffer coats, we jump on the Circulator and head out to Harbor East Baltimore. The Circulator deposits us almost at the door of the impressive Four Seasons Hotel, which is where the bar is located. As we walk past scurrying valets and European sports cars waiting in the driveway, I wonder if we have made a grave mistake. Is this going to be way too sophisticated for us? Are we really allowed to come here? Only one way to find out! We push through the gleaming revolving door and enter the hotel.

To the left of the grand and beautiful lobby of the Four Seasons, we spy the sign for Wit & Wisdom and proceed to enter. Wit & Wisdom is split between a bar on the left side, and a restaurant on the right side. Though the two sides are separate, they flow into each other with a graceful ease and the whole space feels open and effortless. No doubt this "effortlessness" is the result of master designers and architects. Low, rustic looking tables and elegant couches create mini lounge areas where people chat and sip their cocktails. Large picture windows frame a beautiful view of the Baltimore Harbor and the hotel's courtyard. I can only imagine how green and lush it will look in the summer. A hundred or more white lamps illuminate Wit & Wisdom and fill it with a warm, soft glow. These lamps rest on skinny wooden shelves and create the illusion of magical floating lights. Potted echeveria (a large green succulent) and tall spring branches grace the tables and corners and bring a fresh and natural element into the space. In a nutshell, the room is a perfectly balanced mix of natural and industrial elements which make it feel modern and inviting.   

The bar itself is the anchor of the room : an impressive piece of black walnut two-inches thick, smooth on the top and rough cut on the bottom. Solid and elegant, I can't help but to think of this wood's story. Who grew it? Who sanded it? How many hands touched it in the process? Maybe a lumberjack hauled it through the snow? Maybe someone said "Yes!" over it? If only this wood could talk. As we lean our elbows onto this piece of wood to read the cocktail list, we become another part of its saga. 

This long oval shaped bar at Wit & Wisdom seats about sixteen people on each side leaving enough room in the center for five bartenders. These five bartenders are truly masters of their art. I watch them mix, stir, shake, measure, and pour with fluidity and surety. They know what they are doing, and do it well. They know the cocktail recipes by heart and are not afraid to improvise. One bartender leans over to ours as she is mixing a drink and suggests that she add a sprig of fresh sage. "I tried it yesterday" he says. "It is much gooood" he adds. As we read the menu and chat with our bartender, we learn that all the syrups, infusions, and juices at Wit & Wisdom are made on the premises in small batches by the bartenders. We are hooked. 

Our bartender tells us that using only fresh ingredients is key for creating a perfect cocktail.We try a unique one called Pickett's Fence made with ingredients found within a 100 mile radius of the bar. It is a mixture of rye whiskey, local honey, a sliver of granny smith apple, bay leaf infused vodka, Dogfish Head 90 minute IPA, and a bay leaf garnish. As we watch our bartender prepare it, she explains to us the exact order of how to mix the ingredients. She says it is especially important to add the IPA last so it doesn't lose its carbonation. Before she adds the bay leaf garnish, she lights the edges of the leaf on fire to release its full flavor. When we take a sip, Pickett's Fence doesn't disappoint. Seeing and understanding each ingredient added into our drink makes us taste each flavor and really savor it. We notice many more characteristics of the drink than we would have had we not witnessed its creation. As we sip, another bartender comes over and tells us that he concocted the recipe for Pickett's Fence for a contest, and won. He tells us even more about the ingredients and why he loves it. His enthusiasm for the drink spills onto us, and soon we love it too. 

As we head home, I reflect on why Wit & Wisdom appeals to me so much. I realize it attracts me because going there is such a refreshing experience. It is refreshing to find out that an exclusive hotel has a completely accessible bar/restaurant which allows the average person to experience beautiful design and excellent service. I loved spending a perfect long evening there chatting, sipping, and just soaking up the atmosphere with my husband. I know that we will definitely adventure here again, and I have a feeling that when we do, we will be bringing some friends along. 

Let's Circulate!

A free bus you say? Yep, it's true. Baltimore has a free city bus called the Charm City Circulator and it is fantastic! 


Since I have moved to Baltimore, I have used the Circulator many times to access parts of the city that are too far to walk to. With stops close to my apartment, it is extremely easy to jump on and off the Circulator when I want to go to the Inner Harbor or Fell's Point and I don't feel like fighting for a parking space. Though the bus timetable says it stops only every fifteen minutes, I have never waited more than seven to get on and the wait is usually even less than that. The bus drivers are friendly, especially if you say hi and thank you to them, and will always wait for you if they see you running up the street trying to catch a ride. 


Taking the Circulator to circulate Baltimore is a relaxing thing. It is usually easy to find a seat on the bus and the interior is brightly lit,clean, and monitored with security cameras. The bus drivers don't tolerate anyone sleeping on the bus and are quick to scold the offender with a disapproving shout. The fact that the Circulator is entirely free makes taking it for a ride a no-brainer. I love the fact that I don't have to scramble for exact change whenever I want a ride and that I don't have to include the cost of the bus in my Friday night budget. 

Sponsoring a free city bus is a brilliant move on Baltimore's part. Having a free bus encourages people to explore different areas of the city and makes the city accessible to everyone. It promotes restaurants that are farther away and keeps foot traffic thriving. The free Circulator makes it easy for people to take public transportation and cuts down on car traffic and drunk driving, especially on the weekends. 


I know the Circulator isn't really free (we are paying for it in Baltimore taxes) but it still feels like it is when I take it for a ride. In my mind, the Circulator feels like a nice "Thank You" gift from Baltimore to its citizens for living here and for keeping the city in business. I certainly appreciate the gift of a free ride and I know many others do too. I hope that other cities can adopt this great idea and that they do it soon! 

Pizza Extraordinaire: A Restaurant Review

Come on, grab your coat. No, not that one, it's too thin. Yeah, your black pea coat with the high collar is perfect, more sophisticated. Grab your grey scarf too. Fold it in half and loop it through around your neck. No, that's too tight. You look like you are choking. Loosen it up a bit. Aww, there you go. Perfect. Do you have the keys? ID? Wine? Alright, come on! Lucky, lucky you my friend is going on a date with me. To Iggies. Let the night begin!

Another Friday night in Baltimore and it's time to explore another promising restaurant. This time Iggies Pizza is the destination and it is conveniently located right around the corner on Calvert Street. Understated and clean,the storefront of Iggies tells me that this is a place where good food, and not fancy frills, is a priority.Large picture windows let me gaze directly in at laughing and relaxed eaters gathered around long tables enjoying wine, pizza, and each other's company. Illuminated with small lights hanging from the ceiling, Iggies is like a glowing pot of gold on the dark street. I am more than willing to enter inside. 

As I enter Iggies, yeasty air embraces me in a warm hug. I feel as if I am entering into a best friend's kitchen where I feel completely at ease. The maitre d' greets us with a smile and asks how many people are in our party. Pointing at two empty seats wedged in the middle of a long table, she tells us we can sit there and takes our wine for a placeholder. Seeing our somewhat apprehensive faces, she also asks if we have been here before. When we say no, she says "welcome!" and explains the "rules" to us. Iggies isn't an ordinary restaurant. They do seat you and give you plates, but from there on, it is self-serve. Wine glasses, water glasses, silverware, napkins, and corkscrews sit on a small sideboard in the heart of Iggies, and we grab what we need. Easy. Choosing which intriguing pizza to order from the chalk-written menu on the wall is not quite as easy. Orange squash, silky pears,creamy mozzarella, salty pancetta, tangy olives: the extensive list of ingredients delightfully goes on an on. So many possible tastes to savor. We deliberate, and finally decide to go half and half on our pizza with one side the Alioe, and on the other the Diovolo.  

After placing our order at the small counter, we make our way over to our seats. Fellow guests sit directly next to us family style at the long wooden table and we squish ourselves into our chairs carefully trying not to bump our neighbors. To our left sit a young man and his mother who have already finished eating but are still sipping their wine and enjoying a quiet conversation. To our right sits a couple who is chatting quickly and loudly and perhaps a bit nervously. A first or second date? They start holding hands across the table. I think it's a second. An Asian group of students at the far right-end of the table asks the maitre d' to take a photograph of them eating cheese, and saying "cheese." So cheesy, I love it. 

 The close quarters at the table might be too close for some diners, but I enjoy the camaraderie of the table. I love catching quick glimpses into the lives of those sitting next to me as I hear bits of their conversation. Something about a mean girl at work. Something about an art show. Can you pass me the hot peppers? I relish the fact that even though I am sitting amongst complete strangers who can hear everything I'm saying, I feel entirely uninhibited to say whatever I want. I know my conversation isn't really private, but it feels like it is because of the surrounding noise. I know that no one is really listening to me because they are focused on their own conversation. If they do tune into mine, they will probably just laugh and enjoy it, just as I enjoy hearing theirs, and continue on.  

When the chef calls our order, we are ready to eat. The pizza that waits at the counter for us is a beautifully crafted masterpiece. On one side, bubbling mozzarella and parmigiano lay over a bright red tomato sauce finely supported by a thin pita-like crust. Sizzling spicy sausage and fiery hot peppers add a kick and a punch, and another kick. On the other side lies a brilliantly green coating of pesto dotted with vine-ripened tomato, steamy garlic spinach, and buttery goat cheese. Each piece that enters our mouth is an applauding testament to the duo of fresh ingredients and crispy crust. We eat every last chewy cheesy crumb of this pizza, and long after it was gone, savor its taste on our tongues.

The delicious food at Iggies does more than satisfy my stomach: it satisfies my soul. I am reminded to value the small moments of life as I eat my pizza. The apparent appreciation for good food, good friends, and good times that permeates the air at Iggies is why I will be back and why I heartily say, 

"Bravo Iggies! You sure got a good thing right!" 

Friday in Fell's

The taxicab. It's amazing how this unique combination of sticky leather seats, smudged windows, lingering cigarette smoke, and static radio is the perfect ticket to a night of adventure in a new city. Where else but in a taxicab can you get a real tour of a city that won't bore you to death and will cost you only ten dollars cash plus a tip? That's right my friends, nowhere else.

Now Baltimore isn't the largest city, but it does have its fair share of taxis roaming the streets, especially on a Friday night. A few weeks ago, my husband and I decided to snag one with a group of friends and headed down to Fell's Point. For those of you who don't live in Baltimore, or have just moved to Baltimore, Fell's Point is seriously charming. Visiting Fell's Point feels like visiting one of those historic preserved towns like Williamsburg or Pioneer Village except that there is no yellow caution tape or souvenir stands. A little history. Fell's Point was founded in 1763 and officially became Maryland's first National Historic District in 1969. So it's super old, and super cool. Most of the buildings in Fell's are made of red brick and are super narrow. The streets are tight and cobbled and finding a parking spot is equal to winning the lottery. If you visit Fell's, expect to park at least one or two blocks from you destination, or be smart and take a taxi.


My favorite thing about Fell's is that it is so close to the water. It is a beautiful thing to smell the harbor as soon as you get out of your car in Fell's. Now one of the trendiest places to live in Baltimore, someone told me that Fell's Point used to be one of the worst places to live because of the strong fish smell coming off of the water. Because of the fish and dirty water stench, real estate used to be cheaper in Fell's and this is why many poorer immigrants ended up living there. Today, the fish smell has left(lucky for us), but the sturdy row homes and all their history remains.

As our taxicab excursion showed us, Fell's Point is loaded, and I do mean fully loaded, with bars, bistros, restaurants, and boutiques. What I call the "main square" of Fell's is located on South Broadway. The restaurants and bars on South Broadway nest together like eggs in a crate with barely any space between. Until further excursions allow, Max's Taphouse is one of my new favorite places in Fells. This corner bar is definitely a favorite of many Baltimorians because it was packed when we pushed in through the old wood doors. Crammed with exhilarated Friday night partyyers, we finally  made our way to the taps. I have never seen so many beer taps in one place. Max's boasts having 140 rotating drafts, which makes for some tough decision making. After some nail biting and chin scratching we finally choose a perfect brew and took it to the upstairs lounge which was a bit less crowded. 


The atmosphere at Max's is laid-back, crowded, medium-loud, and totally fun. Small four pane windows overlooking South Broadway let the city air and occasional siren light into Max's and grow the Friday night excitement. I watch randoms meet and bump into each other right and left and chat up the night. With such good brews and good company it is easy to have a great night at Max's. Needless to say with 140 rotating drafts to choose from, we will definitely be back, soon.


By the time we leave Fell's Point on this Friday night, the streets are even more crowded than when we came. Taxicabs troll every alleyway and pick up fares at every curb. We dart into a steamy little pizza place and grab a cheesy slice. So good. The sidewalk is bursting and it feels like everyone in Baltimore is with us in Fell's. We find a taxi driver who says he doesn't mind if we eat in his cab, and head home. 


Adieu Fell's Point, until next weekend. 

A New Beginning

 Baltimore, Smaltismore, what to make of you? 

 First night in the city, I crawl into bed (a super small mattress plopped on the floor) and listen to the shrill sound of sirens wailing out the window. An ambulance light glares through our makeshift curtains of hammocks and towels and lights up our room with a red glow. Someone shouts in the street. My husband and I look at each other and shake our heads. Welcome to the Charm City?Yet there's no turning back now, we are here to stay. Time to embrace our future. We open up a bottle of wine and toast the city with styrofoam cups.  

 The morning paints a prettier picture. Sunlight streams into our  bedroom. No sirens yet, only a few birds that can't wait to be heard. I usually love staying in bed for as long as I can, but this morning, my desire for coffee is too great. I force myself to emerge from a mountain of blankets and throw on my warmest clothes. Time to find a a local coffee shop! Hmm, where to go? I decide to walk north and pass a few dogs pulling their still yawning owners along. I spy a few people drinking coffee out of paper cups that aren't from Starbucks and I know a delicious coffee shop is just around the corner, somewhere, if only I can find it.

 This early morning coffee run in Baltimore is the first of many I can already tell. There is something truly magical about an early city morning. I have always felt this magic whenever I have ventured out into the city for school or work or travel. I think the magic steams off of a mostly empty sidewalk stretching out in front of you and all the places it can take you to. The magic comes with the excitement of wondering who you are going to meet today and what conversation you will have that could change your view from horizontal to vertical. 

 As I walk past strangers on my coffee expedition, I wonder where they are going and what they are thinking about. Even though I don't talk to these strangers, we do acknowledge each other as we pass by sometimes with a nod, smile, or step to the side.Inside my head I wish them well on their journey today.I love the simple fact that no matter what the differences are between myself and these strangers, we are all experiencing the same beautiful city morning together.

 Ta da! I finally find an awesome coffee shop which is clean and modern and filled with happy patrons sipping their coffees, reading the paper, and chatting and laughing. I pick up two steaming cups of java and after fixing them with cream, head out the door. After one sip, I am sold. I cannot wait to come back here and settle in with a paper myself one future morning. As I walk home, a guy on the street shouts "You must REALLY love coffee" at me as I pass by him holding an extra-large coffee in each hand. I laugh, and reply "Yes, I do" and we both laugh again. I walk the final blocks back to the apartment and ring our doorbell so my husband can let me in. Waiting on the front stoop I think "yes." Yes, I am beginning to like Baltimore, and yes, this is just the beginning.